We%26#39;re thinking of spending 12 days in the Dordogne this August, and at the moment, we%26#39;re looking at spending 7 days just outside Brantome, and four or five near Sarlat.
While I appreciate that the Sarlat area is the more touristy and popular, is it THAT much prettier and rewarding than the Brantome area? Is there much to do around Brantome? Or should I really be spending most of my time around Domme and Sarlat?
Although I%26#39;m happy to avoid masses of tourists, I don%26#39;t want to spend my holidays in a backwater with nothing to do and little to venture out for. Is Brantome a bit limited?
I%26#39;m ideally looking for: good local restaurants and cafes, horse riding, canoeing, pretty countryside and friendly locals.
Many thanks…
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I would suggest 4 or 5 days in each place (you can do really lovely driving trips out from each to see other sites - try the %26quot;Drive Around%26quot; book for the Dordogne and Southwest France for itineraries and ideas), and a stop somewhere in between for a couple of days to explore that part of the Dordogne as well. You also will want to go over into the Vezere river valley (tributary of the Dordogne).
Some of the interesting places between the area around Brantome and the area around Sarlat would be Hautefort chateau, Perigueux (city center is at least as old as Sarlat, but it%26#39;s a %26quot;real%26quot; city so doesn%26#39;t have quite that %26quot;museum%26quot; feel that Sarlat has), Bergerac (old area near the river is probably 13th or 14th century), and the various villages and chateaux along the Dordogne river as you drive over toward the Sarlat area (particularly Beynac, Castelnaud and Domme).
If you don%26#39;t have any guidebooks yet, do pick some up so you have a better idea of what would interest you. Nothing is really far apart, and all of it is beautiful, but some parts undoubtedly will interest you more than others. Have fun with the planning, and enjoy the trip.
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Hi, agree with the posting above - you can split your 12 days up and find plenty to do in both areas - as we did last July, although we only had 5 days to play with! We stayed for 3 nights in the old town of Martel, at a little hotel called Relais de Sainte Anne (lovely and has a pool - see our review), in the Dordogne Valley east of Souillac. From there it%26#39;s worth visiting a very interesting medieval old town a bit further south called Rocamadour and the caves at Gouffre de Padirac, entered down a 75m deep sink hole, and then via boat. We also did 2 canoe trips whilst based at Martel: Vitrac to Beynac-et-Cazena via Roque Gageac, which takes you through stunning scenery and past lots of chateaux, and also from Gluges to St Sozy - a much quieter stretch of the Dordogne.
Then we drove up to Brantome and stayed for 2 nights at Moulin du Roc (wonderful old mill house over a stream with water wheel, again with a pool and a bit more pricey and great food - also reviewed) in a village just outside. Brantome is called the Venice of north Perigord as it is on an island, in a loop of river, and a beautiful town with lots of greenery/park. We enjoy canoeing and as well as canoeing on the rather sedate Dordogne we also canoed from Brantome to Bourdeilles which took about 3hrs if I recall - involving traversing 8 weirs - great fun, particularly in the middle of Brantome where you also go down a slide over a weir in front of everyone watching from the bridge above - bit embarrassing when you grind to halt as other half a bit heavy in the back! Plenty of waterside restaurants in Brantome and lovely countryside and chateaux in the surrounding area.
As suggested above, Hautefort Chateau is impressive and definitely worth a visit, with some nice restaurants in the town just below, and another little village we really liked not too far from Brantome was St Jean de Cole - it has an old chateau and ancient 11th century church and lovely old cottages - v peaceful little place and again beautiful. Even in July there weren%26#39;t many tourists.
Domme back in the Dordogne valley was a great place but that was swarming with tourists in early July - aim to arrive early or late in the day as it was the one place parking was tricky as its perched on top of a hill with limited spaces. Great views and a good spot for an ice cream!
So basically, go for it - both areas lovely and worth visiting - Brantome a bit less touristy but I think only because it%26#39;s a bit less known about. We found the hotel and restaurant staff everywhere friendly. The only thing I can%26#39;t help you with is horseriding but I expect it%26#39;s there somewhere! The guidebook we used which covered both areas was Rough Guide to the Dordogne %26amp; the Lot.
Hope this helps. Maria
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Well for my 2 cents I would plan on more time near Brantome. I would not underestimate the crowds in Sarlat. While the village of Sarlat was pretty I found the cheese tourist shops too overwhelming. When we were there felt like everyone and their mothers were there. Lots-o-people.
We live north of Brantome (45min) and there are TONS of sites to see in the area. An hardly any crowds. It is really a lovely not well discovered area, not backwoods. St Jean-de-Cole is one of the most lovely villages in France, I think it is 15min from Brantome. There are many Gites, apartments and B%26amp;B%26#39;s in the area. Sounds like you have found a place to stay in Brantome area. With a little bit of internet searching you will find all kinds of great places. Happy to give you some suggestions if you need any. Email us thru lamaillerie.net.
Either way I am sure you will have a lovely trip.
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